Small but nice, up to 93 bonvinitas points: Wine Estate Barth

State’s Honour Award Baden 2025: Auxerrois – Pinot Gris – Chardonnay – Pinot Noir

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Volker Barth, Wine Estate Bahrt in Malschenberg/Baden with top wines. Wine landscape near Malschenberg with a view over the Rhine plain, in the background the Palatinate Forest. Photo by: bannkie – Adobestock' Volker Barth, Wine Estate Bahrt in Malschenberg/Baden with top wines. Wine landscape near Malschenberg with a view over the Rhine plain, in the background the Palatinate Forest. Photo by: bannkie – Adobestock
Volker Barth cultivates barely two hectares of vines in Malschenberg in the Kraichgau region, not far from Heidelberg, yet his wines are top-notch; otherwise, he wouldn't have won the Baden State's Honorary Award 2025 in the category up to 10 hectares, despite stiff competition. This award is based on outstanding performances in the association's wine competitions over the past three years. This piqued my interest, and I requested samples to present the wines here. I can only agree, awarding them high marks on bonvinitas:

Vibrating from a fruity nose to a lively temperament:
2024 Auxerrois dry quality wine Baden, estate bottled by Wine Estate Barth

Wine Estate Barth AuxerroisWith a pleasant 12% alcohol content, which I rated with 93 green bonvinitas points (green for dry wines up to 12%): Intense floral and fruity aromas with hints of candied lemon peel, Williams pears, lemon jelly, and a touch of blossom honey; an elegant, lively body with hints of lemon soda, which soars with lingering temperament in the finish – based on subtle salt notes – a wine to savor, simply fun! Great for conversation, with antipasti, as well as with smoked eel or Königsberger Klopse (meatballs).

The name of the white wine grape variety Auxerrois is probably derived from the French county of Auxerre. It produces lighter, very approachable white wines without excessive acidity, but is only cultivated to a limited extent in Germany, including in the Kraichgau region.

Here are the evaluation criteria that we use for the bonvinitas group blind reviews, and which I also use for my personal reviews, and which of course represent my own opinion.

Wine Estate Barth Pinot NoirWine Estate Barth Chardonnay

Very smooth
2022 Pinot Noir Old Vine dry Qualitätswein Baden, estate bottled by Wine Estate Barth 

14% ABV, which I rated with 91 red bonvinitas points (red for dry wines over 12%): It greets you with a deep aroma of sour cherry compote and nougat, each with a hint of cloves and toast; warm and full-bodied on the palate with fruity notes of blackberries and a touch of cassis; a fine, smooth, creamy finish with gentle tannins. Pairs wonderfully with venison or roast beef.

Combining compactness with elegance,
the 2024 Chardonnay dry quality wine from Baden, estate bottled by Wine Estate Barth

12.5% ​​ABV, which I rated with 92 bonvinitas points: A wonderfully stimulating and delicate aroma with notes of apples, apple compote, mirabelle plums, and ripe nectarines; on the palate, it combines a firm structure with elegance, meandering back and forth between the two, with notes of quince and grapefruit, subtly underpinned by salt; a very elegant, finely balanced finish from which the grapefruit notes rise again, dissolving into a gentle saltiness. Pairs perfectly with light meats such as roast veal or pork medallions, as well as with fish like plaice.

Finely supple power
2023 Chardonnay aged in barrique, dry, quality wine Baden, estate bottled by Wine Estate Barth

Wine Estate Barth Chardonnay Barrique13.5% ABV, 92 bonvinitas points: A calm aroma with notes of autumn apples, dried figs, and caramel; on the palate, robust, even powerful, with hints of gooseberry jam, kumquats, and even shortbread, subtly underpinned by salt; a soft, supple finish that fades into memories of caramel with a very gentle touch of white pepper. Excellent with pepper steaks, Peking duck, or veal strips, for example.

Smooth with a fine glaze
2024 Pinot Gris dry quality wine Baden, estate bottled by Wine Estate Barth

Wine Estate Barth Pinot Gris13.5% ABV, a very fine wine, 93 bonvinitas points: A fresh, very invigorating aroma that transports you to a spring meadow with notes of fresh apples and peaches; on the palate, very smooth with a fine, creamy glaze, from which notes of cashew nuts and fresh figs emerge; a calm, very compact finish with hints of sandalwood. Pairs perfectly with grilled steaks, as well as mussels or vegetable and rice dishes.

Barth also sent a very nice 2023 Pinot Noir, a quaffable, peppery wine, lovely with roast beef, beef roulades, or leg of lamb, which I rated at 89 bonvinitas points.

 Volker Barth:

“I’m self-taught in winemaking, having trained as a professional orchestral musician (trombone) and still working part-time as a music teacher. My philosophy is ‘only the best grape quality, which can only be preserved, not improved, in the cellar.’ Through strict yield control, and with compact grape varieties additionally through cluster thinning, I strive for the highest possible quality and optimal grape health. I enjoy working with wooden barrels because the wines then exhibit a different aging behavior, not primarily for flavoring. Basically, I make wines that I myself am convinced of. Because I can only sell what I am convinced of.”

Text and bottle photos: Dieter Simon, publisher and editor-in-chief of bonvinitas


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