The vineyard Bassgeige

Viewed from above, several vines in this local vineyard resemble the shape of a bass fiddle. Thus, more than a hundred years ago, a name was born that is now one of the most renowned in the German wine scene. The vineyards, which are partly terraced and mainly face south to southwest, with some terraces facing east, west, and northwest, are composed primarily of weathered volcanic rock, carbonatite, tephrite lava, and loess, with slopes ranging from 0 to 70%. The volcanic rock, combined with warm loess-clay soils, provides ideal growth conditions for outstanding Burgundy wines. This also applies to the neighboring Schelinger Kirchberg vineyard, where warm springs even emerge from deep within the nearby Badberg mountain. These provide an idea of the soil warmth that the deep-rooted vines here enjoy, in addition to the sunlight. The majority of the vineyards are cultivated by members of the Oberbergen winegrowers' cooperative. The grape varieties there include mainly the Burgundy varieties Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir, as well as Mueller-Thurgau, Riesling, Silvaner and others, so I would like to introduce a great Pinot Gris here first:

2024 Oberbergener Baßgeige Grauburgunder Kabinett dry

from the Oberbergen wine cooperative. The down-to-earth nature of this multifaceted wine is evident even in the aroma. Earthy and nutty variations from walnut to hazelnut to almond. Notes of undergrowth combined with fresh grain, tobacco, and coffee. Only in the background are fruity hints of orange peel, quince, and curry. Smoky finish. The delicate smoky note initiates the flavor cycle. The nutty, earthy components also predominate on the taste. This is not a flatterer in the glass, but one that grabs hold of things. Robust and straightforward, with plenty of grip and bite. Honest and authentic. Unlike so many of its kind, it is not carried by the alcohol, but impresses with its compactness and directness. There are no detours here, but rather it gets straight to the point. Confident, individual, a little cheeky, a little provocative. But that is precisely what makes it so interesting. Sip by sip.

The Oberbergen winegrowers' cooperative

With almost 460 members, it is not only one of the most important winegrowers' cooperatives in Baden, but was even named Germany's best cooperative in 2021. The vineyard area currently covers 355 hectares. In addition to the responsible work in the vineyards by the winegrowing families, it is above all the careful processing of the grapes and an excellent, modern cellar management with absolutely "transparent production" that guarantee first-class quality. For the overall development of the company, the winegrowers' cooperative was even the only one to date to be honored with Germany's most important business award at the Grand Prize for Small and Medium-Sized Businesses.

The range leaves nothing to be desired, offering various lines that provide a good orientation in terms of taste, characteristics, and price. The products all come from the top vineyards of Oberbergener Baßgeige or Schelinger Kirchberg, which the winegrowing families devote their best efforts to. Wine maker Wolfgang Schupp and his team are responsible for vinifying the grapes into top-quality wines. Delicate Pinot Blancs, robustly elegant Pinot Gris, juicy and powerful Pinot Noirs, fresh and fruity Mueller-Thurgau, and top-class sparkling wines are all part of the extensive selection.

Oberbergen was first mentioned in a document by Emperor Otto II in 972, and viticultural history can be traced back to 1296. It was here, in 1924, during difficult times for viticulture, that the Oberbergen wine cooperative was founded by 42 winegrowers. After many successes, the neighboring Schelingen cooperative was acquired in 1998.

Other excellent wines from the Oberbergen wine cooperative, which I have noted:

2024 Oberbergener Baßgeige Pinot Noir Rosé dry

This Pinot Noir Rosé clearly demonstrates the cooperative's high quality standards. A wonderful introduction. Delightfully different. A step away from the run-of-the-mill gelly baby rosés and more of a character. Even the aroma of this wine reveals its individuality. Minerality is prominent, combined with a delicate smoky note. Spicy notes of cinnamon, anise, and ginger pique curiosity.

A tart beauty wants to be conquered. This wine is no poltergeist. It's the cool gaze of passion. After every sip, you crave more. It fills the entire mouth. Aromas of blood orange and red grapefruit are equally at home here, as are herbal notes of nettle, ivy, and rosehip. The slight spiciness provides freshness and vibrancy. A spirit of optimism, motivation, joie de vivre. Progress is on the way. Constantly longing for the next sip. Rosé with a difference: but really good!

2024 Oberbergener Baßgeige Chardonnay dry

What a scent! Like a hug, like coming home. You can hardly wait to drink it. Pear, banana, and mango, earthy notes of almond, hazelnut, and mushrooms, and a wonderful hint of caramel. To prevent the whole thing from becoming too soft and warm, mineral and smoky components keep everything suspended. A joy just to smell. Can the taste top it? It can! A Chardonnay for once, not with a lot of buttery, satisfying texture, but with a touch of provocation, animation, and youthful insouciance. A wine that doesn't just want to please, but is also endowed with a high sense of self-worth.

Floral elements, together with the hint of residual sweetness, create a thrilling balancing act. Like a foal in a pasture, carefree, almost weightless, with its whole life ahead of it. Full of spirit. It's astonishing what this young wine has to offer. It possesses tremendous expressiveness, which it combines admirably with a playful lightness. Banana and elderflower, fennel and pine nuts, anise and walnut all come together in perfect harmony. A fine minerality and a piquant, white pepper note give the whole a wonderfully provocative touch. As a solo entertainer, it can easily fill an entire evening. But as a food accompaniment, it also succeeds in drawing out the best from the dishes. Lively and youthfully striking right up to the finish. A great performance.

The following two wines are unique vintages of premium quality. They come from select vineyards. Meticulous manual processing, strict yield reduction through grape splitting (TT), and a selective harvest form the basis for these two wines.

2023 Oberbergener Baßgeige Weißburgunder dry Edition TT

The aroma of thies Pinot Balnc already reveals what it's made of. In the overture at the beginning of the wine experience, flutes and clarinets take center stage. Clear aromas. Beautifully balanced, nuances of pear, quince, walnut, and banana delight our noses. Then bassoon and oboe follow, and a quartet of rose hips, hay, fresh bread, and the scent of undergrowth take the wine back a bit and provide some peace, before returning to full force with the taste. Brass instruments enter, timpani and cymbals can be heard. No one knocks quietly and shyly, asking for entry. This wine stands directly in the room and fills it to the ceiling. Pure presence. Straightforward from start to finish. No compromises. In beautiful balance, you taste a slightly peppery spiciness, fruity bitter notes of quince and rose hip, and a soothing fruity sweetness of pear, banana, and orange peel. Then comes the time for the soft, delicate notes, the time for the strings. The music becomes quieter, darker, more melodious, and earthy notes, like wet leaves and undergrowth, become perceptible. Cello notes, warm and soft, conjure the taste of melted butter, brittle, and cream sweets on our tongues. Then comes the finale. The trumpets return, adding spice. Ginger, anise, coriander, and a hint of cinnamon provide a phenomenal finale with a furioso.

A wine for eternity, full of juice and power and a beautiful density. The aroma and flavor components are strung together like pearls on a string. Pure smoothness and harmony. Coherent and perfectly balanced. A successful combination of a hint of sweetness, delicate bitter notes, restrained spiciness, and opulent fullness. Here, every soloist puts themselves at the service of the whole. An orchestra plays Beethoven's Ninth.

2023 Oberbergener Baßgeige Grauburgunder dry Edition TT

The earthiness of this complex pinot gris wine is evident even in the aroma. It combines spice with fruit and minerality in a wonderful way. It's astonishing how aromas of nuts, grains, banana peel, ripe pear and apple, along with spices like lovage and horseradish, blend together. This is complemented by a beautiful minerality and a slightly smoky component.

Fancy some extravagance? Here you go! Then this isn't your typical Pinot Gris. This wine doesn't sit still. It's light and buoyant. Like a painting, a naturalistic still life in which wine, grain, fresh bread, nuts, and fine herbs can be recognized. This wine embodies all of this. It wanders with us through the herb garden, plucks some burnet and sage, then feasts on the walnut tree and satisfies its hunger with quince and pear. It shares all of this with us according to the motto: joy shared is joy doubled. It's right! Sweetness and acidity, fruit and minerality, all wonderfully balanced. Surprisingly lively, challenging, stimulating. Getting involved with it requires more than just one glass. But it's worth it!

2023 Oberbergener Baßgeige Pinot Noir quality dry wine

A powerful entrance. You can already smell what's in the glass. The soft, warm, fruity nuances of blackberry, black cherry, elderberry, plum, and a hint of blackcurrant are beautiful. But before you fall into a trance, the slightly smoky note paired with juniper and bacon stirs things up and makes you curious about what's to come. The soft core of this wine is enchanting. But getting to it is just as much fun. It's like biting into high-quality dark chocolate with a filling of orange peel, ginger, and cassis. In between, violets, cherries, and plums brush against our taste buds. Truly no skinny. Meaty, sensual, seductive. Eternal in the finish. While it may have just been a flirtation at first, by the second and third glass it's sure to become a long-term relationship.

In addition to a wide selection of wines, the Oberbergen winegrowers' cooperative also offers six different sparkling wines and a secco of the same high quality. They also offer a white wine spritzer, a non-alcoholic secco, and a red mulled wine under the 'Rebstück' brand.

Wine shop, barrique cellar, tasting and banquet hall as well as culinary offerings

In the wine shop, winemaking tradition and modern service elegantly blend. This offers visitors a truly unique experience for discovering their wines. The complete range of Oberbergener Baßgeige wines, as well as wines from the Schelinger Kirchberg vineyard, is presented in 300 square meters. Here, you can browse and select at your leisure, or receive personalized advice from the trained team.

The barrique and wooden barrel cellar, redesigned in 2018, and the wine shop, connected to the extensive wine cellars by an underground tunnel, are definitely worth a visit.

The vineyard tours with wine tasting, which take place from Easter to the end of October on Wednesdays at 2 p.m. after prior registration up to the day before, are also very popular.

Last but not least, the tasting room on the upper floor – the 'Genussatelier' (enjoyment studio) – offers an appealing ambiance for up to 120 people. Even the most discerning guests are sure to find the perfect choice for their celebrations among the diverse selection.

Anyone looking for space for a party, anniversary, wedding, birthday, or interested in a personalized wine tasting is there in good hands. Here, you'll find the perfect ambiance and, of course, the perfect wine and sparkling wine specialties. And since the Kaiserstuhl region is also a stronghold of Baden cuisine, the cooerative caters to almost any culinary desire, from cheese platters to gourmet plates to Baden-style Schäufele (a typical Baden dish of pork). This ensures that every wine tasting is an impressive experience for every group of visitors.

Text: Horst Kröber; Photo credits: Oberbergen Winegrowers' Cooperative unless otherwise stated